Article a partir du magazine
"WAKASA-SEIKATSU (Mars 2008)"
Article a partir du magazine
"WAKASA-SEIKATSU (Mars 2008)"
Parfumeur Satori Osawa
"Fragrance: pour garder un coeur plein de grace et en santé"
Une des fleurs preferees du parfumeur Satori Osawa est "la Rose".
Ayant elle-meme l'experience d'en cultiver dans son jardin, elle affirme que l'arome de la rose est un veritable cadeau de la nature. Voici un interview entre Kenichi Kakutani, President de Wakasa-Seikatsu, et Satori Osawa, a la recherche du charme de "la Rose".
Kadoya: Si j'ai bien compris, vous etiez dans le business de l'aromatherapie longtemps avant que ce terme soit connu au Japon. Une profession qui semble tres interessante, avec de la grace et des reves.
Satori: Merci pour votre compliment. Aujourd'hui, on apprecie les fragrances de divers manieres. Autrefois, le terme "parfum" etait directement associe aux parfums etrangers, qui me laissait toujours un voeu personel: "De creer un parfum qui convient au climat, aux odeurs corporelles, et a l'atmosphere Japonaise". Ce souhait a ete ma raison pour commencer mon salon "Parfum Satori", ou je suggere mes fragrances originales. Actuellement je creer des parfums personnalises sur commandes pour satisfaire chaque client. A part les commandes individuelles, j'ai eu l'occasion de faire quelques collaborations avec des musiciens et des masions de mode.
J'utilise environ 500 matieres premieres pour realiser mes parfums. Ces matieres sont mélangees avec precaution jusqu'a la realization de la derniere image parfaite. Je donne aussi des cours de parfum pour ceux qui veulent connaitre le monde de la parfumerie et creer leur propre parfum. C'est en enseignant que je decouvre la delicatesse et la sensibilite du sens olfactif des Japonais.
Kadoya: Quel a ete le debut de votre passion envers les fragrances?
Satori: J'etais une passionee de plantes depuis que j'etais toute petite. Ma curiosite sur les plantes et les fleurs me tenaient occupee quand je revenait de l'ecole, je cherchais leurs noms et caracteres dans un petit dictionnaire botanique que je gardais dans ma poche.
Kadoya: Je suppose que vous devez avoir un sens olfactif particulier pour devenir parfumeur.
Satori: On me pose souvent cette question, mais ce n'est pas le cas pour tous les parfumeurs. Le sens olfactif peut etre entraine. Je ne manque pas mon entrainement quotodien, qui m'aide a developper mes sensitivities de parfumeur.
L'efficacite de la Rose
Kadoya: J'ai visite le Centre National Bulgarien des recherches de la Rose l'annee derniere ou j'ai ete introduit a une huile de rose qui a ete extrait il y a 60 ans. J'ai ete par les techniques qui permettent la preservation si longue des fragrances.
Satori: Les conditions de vieilles fragrances, y compris les parfums antiques, dependent de la distillation et des methodes de preservation. Correctement entretenus, les parfums peuvent eviter les dommages et garder leur fragrance.
Kadoya: Personnellement, aimez-vous la fragrance de la rose?
Satori: Biensur. J'aime non seulement la fragrance mais je trouve que la rose elle meme est tres seduisante. Elle me donne la force de vivre. Je pense que beaucoup de gens sont d'accord avec moi. Son apparence magnifique et son arome pleine de grace. En aromatherapie, la rose est prescrit pour les femmes for symptoms suffered by women such as irregular menstruation. It is known to balance the hormone levels and ease the nerves. As a widely loved flower, there are many legends surrounding the rose.
Kadoya: When I went to Bulgaria I visited the "rose valley". As the name describes it, the field and the air were filled with bloomed Damascena Roses and its graceful scent.
Satori: Bulgaria is famous for the rose festival. I was once invited by the Bulgarian Ambassador of Japan and had the chance to visit the country during that season. Hand massage therapies, flower arrangements, performances using papers etc... everything was associated with the rose. It was a spectacular day. May I ask you what the intention of your visit was?
Kadoya: One of our products "Sophia Rose" is a drinking supplement made from a top quality Bulgarian Damascena Rose Oil. Out of 20 million kinds of rose in the world, Bulgarian Damascena Roses are known to have an exceptional scent. I wanted to see with my own eyes the quality of our products' ingredient.
Satori: A variety of brand new rose species we call "modern roses" were created along the way, but Damascenas, Gallicas, Albas, and Scent folias, are called "old roses" because they are very close to the original rose and are usually used as ingredients of Rose Oils. They might not be visually as gorgeous as the other ones cultivated for contemplation, but they have a unique charm and I personally like them very much.
Growing flowers with love and care
Kadoya: What impressed me the most at the rose valley was the gracefulness and sensitivity qualities of the rose scent floating in the air. Flowers scents are the strongest when they start to bloom, and soon disappear as the morning mist is gone. That is why the flowers are picked by hand before dawn and quickly carried to the distillation factory. I now understand that only under such a thoroughgoing management and hard work can the world's highest quality fragrance be maintained.
Satori: In all floral fragrances, the Damascena Rose Essence is considered a very important material. It can easily play the leading role; so to say it has such power that a little amount is enough to enhance the fragrance and add some natural floral sweetness.
Kadoya: I agree that it is so world-widely recognized. Obviously Bulgaria's climate, rain ration, and soil quality are the preconditions in order to make such fragrance. I have heard that you used to grow roses yourself.
Satori: Yes. In order to grow fragrant roses, some very particular preparations are necessary. Roses need daily care. I have heard that people growing them precisely according to a cultivation calendar can hardly leave home even for a short trip. I struggled a lot too when I was growing mines. But when the flowers successfully bloom after all the patient hard work, it is unbelievably rewarding and wonderful to work in the garden surrounded by their beautiful scent. It is a nothing but a gift from nature.
Kadoya: I think this patient hard work done with such love and care is the essence and key to create excellent fragrance.
The habit of enjoying elegant fragrance
Kadoya: More and more people today enjoy fragrance. Recently I have found that it is also attracting the attention of lots of men.
Satori: Yes, I also feel the interest of men have increased lately. I have a male clientele looking for unique fragrances, relaxing fragrances...
Kadoya: We often hear the word "aging note", which might also be a reason for their interest.
Satori: A lot of them start to worry about it attaining their 50's and 60's, and get interested in perfumes, but they still seem to be a little shy and hesitant about it.
Kadoya: Yes, some of our male customers have started taking our products with the push of their wives and daughters.
Satori: That's a very good opportunity. I personally think perfumes can really be enjoyed only after a certain age. I often have the chance to visit Paris, where I like to spend my free time in parks, wonderful classrooms teaching me so much, about color coordination for example. There is a park in Saint-Germain that I used to go everyday during my stay. As I was enjoying the freshness of the day in there, a charming gentleman would pass through every single morning, bending down to smell a rose. He was obviously not only enjoying the appearance of the flower but also its fragrance. I felt that in France, similarly to fashion, the culture of fragrance is deeply rooted into people. I have heard that even some children get to wear a light eau de cologne after their bath.
Kadoya: Very interesting. A naturally mastered etiquette can be so inconspicuous and elegant. My last question is: As a fragrance missionary, what are your future dreams?
Satori: I would like to keep creating and introducing fragrances with a healthy mind and inner reserves for the enjoyment of beauty. Same as clothes, fragrance is part of fashion. The person wearing it should benefit from it. I sincerely wish the fragrance culture in Japan to keep extending, by suggesting fragrances that would perfectly harmonize the total balance of the person.
Kadoya: Thank you very much for your wonderful fragranced talk!
▶ Ｙｏｕ Tｕｂｅ PARFUM SATORI Making
