Satori appear in fashion magazine Jessica
Perfume, the Final Answer of Fashion
In
Perfume, Perfumer as a profession
A perfumer blends original essences together to design fragrances. The creation is not necessarily a perfume; it can also be a detergent, a toothpaste, a gum... Fragrances are used for countless daily goods, made out from 2000 to 5000 different kinds of smells.
Satori is a Fine Fragrance Perfumer who focuses on perfume and eau de toilette. "There are about 500 kinds of essences applied in fine fragrance making. After combining these essences together in my imagination, I write out a prescription and then blend and create a fragrance."
It may not sound so complicated at first, but the uniqueness of the hundreds of original scents makes its combinations infinite.
"Let's say we would like to create a perfume for a woman called Jessica. First, let's try to build her image." ...Jessica's image? Well... Active, fresh, but feminine, and sexy as well... "Now, to concretely express the active image, I recommend this group of scents, this group for the freshness, and this one for the feminine image... We first blend scents within each group and try to find the most beautiful combination (we call this in professional term "take the accord" find harmony). Those combinations called "concept groups" are then blended together until we finally find the best "accord", the best "harmony". Within this process, some scents do not match, or even if they do match the slightest change of the quantity can change the whole nature of the fragrance, and we have start the whole process again." ...a mind-boggling process. It is said that a common person's sense of smell gets confused after 3 kinds of smell. This sense can be trained and brushed up only by smelling different scents everyday.
Looking for the lost scent
Satori creates original order made perfumes in her atelier.
"When I get an order, I do a close analysis with my customer in order to build a concrete image and concept. We talk about fragrances, fashion, music, and I also use a key word classification chart." This chart contains many check points and is equivalent to a doctor's counseling carte. The perfume that would perfectly fit its owner is made inspired by this intense information. "...But in my view, the work of a professional perfumer is not complete yet. Because it is a perfume made uniquely made for that person, I would like to suggest a fragrance that would lead that person one step forward; a scent that would lead to self discovering and the brush up of one's sense of beauty."
Some people order the remake of their favorite old perfume. "Due to extinctions of some natural ingredients, or changes in regulations and guidelines of natural ingredient industries and manufacturers, some ingredients can no longer be applied and the original scent changes or can be lost forever." Even Channel No. 5 is different from its first one in 1921. "So sometimes it is impossible to remake exactly the same scent. When I get a remake order, I make sure to first explain this to my customer and then make a brand new scent as similar as possible, trying to find common feelings my customer can get between the lost scent and the new scent." It is nothing but nostalgia to remake a perfume just out of curiosity. More than that, a perfume has the purpose of brushing up the aesthetic sense of the person who wears it.
Perfume... "How to wear and how to choose"
Clothes, shoes, accessories... the last thing we wear is Perfume. In that sense we could say Perfume is the final answer.
"In the old days we used to say "Wear a dot of perfume, a line of eau de toilette, and a side of
How can we choose a perfume that would perfectly fit us? "First do not get influenced by the fragrance popularity or market. The most important thing is that you like the fragrance and not because so and so is wearing it, or because it is in fashion. Brushing up one's sense of beauty is an effective way to mature one's taste of fashion, which will naturally lead to a step up in one's selection of perfumes.
About the Salon
Satori owns her Salon. She claims, "A professional can only be fostered by a professional" and she has her own reasons. She was herself a student of a professional perfumer who worked for a worldly famous perfume company in
"A perfumer is not a profession that can easily be mastered. Sometimes there is a big gap between the image and the reality of the profession. In some of the private fragrance schools (since there are no official perfumer certifications in
World Perfumery Congress and the "blue rose"
In
So now, what kind of fragrance would you like to provide to the Japanese clientele? "The oriental image represented in the western world is often not the same as the real oriental taste lived and appreciated in Japan. There are also many people who don't like the intrusive smell of brand perfumes. In my view, a scent facing outwards with a strong self-assertion is too aggressive to a Japanese woman. A scent facing inwards, making oneself comfortable. A simple and natural, but not cheap... a sheer scent. Including the bottle design, I wish I can provide a luxurious product."
As I am writing this article, I heard the latest genetic recombination techniques materialized the blue rose. This news struck me as incongruous and made me think... All along history, what were the true meanings behind the pursuit of the blue rose? Is there really a meaning in a rose made artificially, surpassing people's dreams and history? Through this interview, I came to understand that blending perfumes is an act that defines the person's upbrought esthetic sense, a sense of beauty invisible to the eye. We always have to be eager to brush up this sense in order to become a perfumer or to find a perfume that would perfectly match us. Fashion's final answer... Why not start brushing up your esthetic sense through perfumery?
2004/06/01,JESSICA magazine